You guys know me by now, I like pockets and I am always after a way to improve storage options in a bag. We have made quite a lot of pockets together but the other day, I realised that there was still one that we haven’t explored- that would be the zippered divider pocket. Put simply, this is a dual purpose pocket which gives you more storage (yay!) and divides up your bag so that you can carry things slightly differently (double yay!).

These pockets are not difficult to make and they are not difficult to fit either. This post is going to be all about how to make one and fit it to a bag with a gusset. You can fit them to a boxed base too but that is a slightly different affair and I am going to tackle that separately in another post.

The divider pocket will be fully lined and interfaced and it will be sealed all around so no ugly bits. As usual, because it is easier, I am going to reference one of my patterns – this time the new Devon Tote which is a confident beginner friendly tote with quite an unusual handle arrangement. I love the way that the Devon sits so that you can access the contents but when you pick it up by the handles, the top closes (some dark magic at work here!). You can buy the Devon tote pattern right here.

So what will we need to make this special pocket? The pattern will give you all of the sizing details. We are going to concentrate on the how-tos here. So you will need:

• the zipper
• the two divider pocket outer panels
• the two divider pocket lining panels

TIP: you will notice in the photos as we go along that my lining is in two colours – that is because I really wanted to use the floral print and I knew that I didn’t have enough fabric. I wasn’t going to let THAT stop me though!

• the two pieces of interfacing. I am using H630 by Vlieseline which is a light fusible fleece. This will make the pocket feel lush and also provide a bit of cushioning without taking up too much space.
• the two gusset lining pieces

Firstly, fuse the wadding to the wrong side of your two designated pocket outer panels.

Then round the two lower corners of the outer and the lining panels. We do this because the bag has rounded corners and whatever we do on the outside, we have to do on the inside too. Best get it out of the way now.

Take the zipper and an interfaced outer panel and find the centre of the zip and the panel and match them up with the right sides of both the zipper and the panel facing. Baste the zipper in. This step is a real help because when we put the lining on top, you won’t be able to see that zipper anymore and it can shift.

Now bring in an un-interfaced lining panel (conveniently, mine are different and my ‘lining’ is the solid fabric) and place the two panels right sides facing with the zipper sandwiched in between.

Sew right along the zip, flip the panels the right way out and topstitch right along the zip twice, the first pass at 1/8″ and the second 3/8″ under that

Repeat for the other side. Now bring the two sides of the pocket together so that lining is facing lining and the zipper is at the top. Pin well and baste the sides and bottom

Trim any zipper overhang from the sides. I am using a continuous zip so to get the 12″ that is actually needed, I have cut a 14″ length.

Now bring the two gusset pieces in. Find the centre of the pocket base and also the centre of the gusset pieces and mark them.

Pin or clip one of the gusset pieces to the side of the pocket lining the centre marks up on both and working out from the centre

On the corners, you will be trying to fit the straight gusset to a curved corner and you can make your life easier by making some little snips (no more that 1/8″ in) where the gusset fits the corners

Sew the gusset onto that side. You will only be sewing to the top of the divider pocket on the first side of the gusset. Pin the other gusset on too, again making the little snips to ease the straight gusset around the corner but this time, pin the gusset to the other one all the way to the top. Sew the gusset, again all the way to the top.

When you sew the second piece of gusset on, mind what is happening on the back. It is easy to catch the first gusset in the stitching, especially on the corners. Basically what we have here is a gusset which is split in half, a divider pocket added into the split and then the gusset is sewn up again leaving the divider pocket in the seam. This also means that there are no ugly raw bits and if you open the divider pocket, that is perfect inside too.

That’s it! You now have a divider pocket and a gusset. All that is left to do now is to add the lining on both sides and you have an interesting, pocket laden lining, ready to go.

It is really easy to to make and not beyond the skills of a confident beginner. Remember, if you like the look of the Devon Tote you can get your pattern right here.

’till next time, hugs

Debbie xx