There are many ways of doing just about everything in our world and some ways are better than others – others are just perfect in their place. Lining comes under this heading.

Mostly lining things really scares a beginner (when they are not being worried about zippers) but it really shouldn’t. Lining isn’t difficult and there is absolutely no excuse for raw edges or zig-zagged ugly bits. It is a thing that just needs to be learned and practiced.

Today I would like to show you how to make bound lining. So what is this and what makes it different to ‘normal’ garden variety lining? Well normal lining is made usually to the same or a similar pattern to the bag, it is constructed and then inserted into the bag. This can either be as drop in lining or bagged out. Don’t worry, this post may end up being a series of posts where we tackle each one separately.

Bound lining on the other hand is made as you go along and it is attached to the panels with a machine basting stitch. The bag is then constructed and there are a lot of raw edges inside the bag which are then bound with bias tape to hide them. This sort of lining can be used in any sort of bag but it is not usual in totes.

I love bound lining for train cases, weekender bags and rucksacks. A great rule of thumb is that anytime a bag has a gusset and top zipper gusset panel, you should expect a bound lining. If the designer doesn’t use a bound lining, the interior of the bag can sag in an alarming way (thank you gravity) and the results will be nearly always disappointing.

I will be referencing my new Berlin Round Bag to show you how to make this sort of lining. You can find the pattern for it right here in my shop .

So what do we need to make a lovely bound lining without sags and droopy bits? Most things will have been finished and you will be at the end of the pattern by this time so you will need:

• The lining panels and these will be finished with the pockets attached.
• Bias binding
• The bag’s outer panels, also finished and ready to go.

The first thing to do is to press anything which needs it and then take the outer panel and the lining and pin or clip them and then baste WRONG sides together.

I have highlighted this point in caps because often, we go for the right sides together thing when sewing. Not this time.

Another thing worth mentioning here with reference to the Berlin Round Bag in particular is that when you are working on a circle, there is no top or bottom until you assign it one. This means that you have to make sure that designs are up the right way, and that pockets are too – that circle will fit even the wrong way and not tell you until it is too late. Keep checking!

Machine baste the outer edge right around, keeping gently tension on the lining. You don’t want to pull too hard and make puckers.

When you are done, the lining may have stretched. This is normal and varies from fabric to fabric. Simply trim the weird bits away.

Repeat for the other side panel and then you need your zipper gusset. I have made a post on how to construct one of these here.

You will see that the zipper gusset is also lined as it is made so we are good to go. Working inside out, clip the zipper gusset loop to one of the panels

I prefer clips to pins and if you don’t have them, hand baste. Pins distort the fabric and they get in the way.

Now sew that edge

As you can see, the lining is lovely and flat but we have a raw edge. Never fear! We shall tackle that next!

Actually this is one of those times when you don’t really have to notch the edge to make it sit nicely. The extra bulk actually seems to hold the edge well. The same applies to train cases and overnight bags too.

Okay so still working inside out (I just wanted to show you the outside for a second), be sure to open the zipper – if you don’t, and trust me this is experience talking, you will get to unpick the seam so that you can turn the bag the right way out so for goodness sake, save time and open the zipper now.

Now put the second side on the same way that you did the first.

Now we have these raw edges. We need to bind them with bias binding. You can use shop bought or you can very easily make your own. The advantage of shop bought is obvious. It is right there and ready to go and you can go and make a coffee while the rest of us make some from scratch.

The advantage of homemade bias binding is that it will match your bag lining perfectly. I like that and if you do too, you will be happy to know that it is easy to make!

Firstly, cut your strips on the diagonal (bias) grain

A word to the wise- you might think that bias cuts are wasteful and they can be but it is absolutely vital to cut this binding on the bias so that it will fit around the curve without puckering. Did you know, by the way that you can get more than 7 yards of binding from a fat quarter? That’s not too bad!

Now join then to make one long length

Fold them in half lengthways (wrong sides facing) and then press. Fold the two outer raw edges to that centre crease and press again.

You can also use a bias tape maker. I recommend the Clover red one for the width of fabric that we have here.

I like to hand stitch this bias tape on. It is a perfect Netflix activity and really relaxing. I am never happy with the results if I use my machine. Use little stitches and take advantage of the thickness of the seam to bury them.

And that is all there is to it! You will not look back once you have made one of these sorts of linings and compared it to the often saggy other options. There should never be a part of your bag that you have to hide because it is less than perfect.

Here is the finished Berlin Round Bag. It is a really unusual one and eye catching in the best possible way. If you love the look of it, remember, you can find the pattern here.

Till next time, happy sewing!

Debbie xx