As you venture into the world of bag making, you will encounter gusset zippers – these are the flat zipper panels that are so often used in weekender bags and other bags where a gusset (separate middle panel) is used. A gusset gives great depth to the bag and allows it to have a flat base and it is an instantly recognisable part.

The zipper gusset panel has been put about as being difficult and something for more experienced bag makers – you know what? Nothing at all could be further from the truth! There are actually only a few steps to it and you line the panel as you go. It saves time and ensures a perfectly flat and taut lining at the same time.

This post is going to show you all about how to add a gusset zipper to your bags. I will be referencing my Berlin Round Bag and you can find the pattern for it here.

The reason that we have a gusset zipper is simply to allow access to the bag via the gusset – it would not be much point having an unbroken gusset all the way around. The gusset zipper is a flat inclusion in the gusset and it looks very professional.

So what do we need to get started? Your pattern will give the details so I am not going to add measurements here unless they are super important. This is all about the how-to.

• The main zipper. This is usually a heavy duty one and a continuous zipper works very well.
• The two outer panels which lay next to the zip
• The two lining pieces
• End tabs
• The base panel and lining

The first thing to do is to interface the outer panels; both the ones which are next to the zip and the base panel. I use Style-vil foam interfacing by Vlieseline.

Take your zipper, an interfaced outer panel and a piece of lining.

Place the outer panel and the lining right sides together with the zipper sandwiched in between

Normally the opening end of the zip is to the left but in certain circumstances, this is changed. Do what is comfortable for you.

Sew along the length of the zip

Flip the layers the right way out and then topstitch

I like to machine baste the layers then so that they do not flap around.

Repeat this for the other side and as you can see, you have a nice flat panel which is lined and has the zipper in. So far so easy!

And here is what it looks like from the lining side. I love the fact that it is all finished and ready to be added to the bag. You don’t have to turn around and make the lining which can feel like sewing the bag twice!

But this does not show you how to put the panel in. The next thing is to add any tabs to the end of the zip, bang in the middle like this

These tabs may have a rectangle ring or a D ring to carry a strap or they might just be there to help with the opening and closing of the bag.

Now we have the base. The first half is straightforward. take the base, the base lining and the zipper panel. Place the base and its lining right sides facing and sandwich the zipper panel end in between.

Sew across

Open out and topstitch.

You will do well to use a thicker needle here too. This is a place where breakages are likely because of the thickness of the layers.

Now we cannot do the other end yet. In all good patterns, you will be given slightly more base and base lining length than you need. It is easier to trim away than lament not having enough. Seam allowances, interfacing and fabric weight will all influence the fit so extra is allowed. The idea is to fit the base on

And then trim if needed. Don’t forget that when you trim, you need a 1/4″ extra for the seam allowance. When you are happy with the fit, attach the free end as you did the first one and you will have a loop.

I like to machine baste the edges together too so that they are easier to handle. Then make little snips along the edge to help fit the straight gusset around the curve. Never go more that 1/8″ in though. The snips must be well within the seam allowance.

And that is all there is to it! This sort of arrangement is usually used in a bound lining. This ensures a perfectly flat and beautifully fitted lining and if you would like to know more about it, you can find a post here where I go into detail about it for you.

If you like the look of the Berlin Round Bag, don’t forget that you can find the pattern in my shop.

Happy sewing and I will see you next time!

Debbie xx