Slip pockets are another essential bag making skill and they are really easy. You will have seen them already. Shirt breast pockets are slip pockets and they are a popular addition to most bags.
The thing is though, there are lined slip pockets and unlined ones. I have a horror of raw edges and horrid bits in bag making so I am going to show you today how to make a lined slip pocket that will transform your life – you will never go back!
So what are slip pockets and why do we need them. Well there are basically two sorts of pockets in a bag – a pocket with a zip and a pocket without a zip. The latter category is where we find slip pockets. They are the sort of pocket where you might want to, well, slip your phone or a pen or nail file. You want easy access.
The pocket that I am going to show you today has lining and interfacing because, if we are going to make a bag, we are going to do it right and make it artisan. Handmade rather than homemade. These little skills will life your sewing instantly and make it look more professional.
So the lining is there to hide the ugly bits and the interfacing is there to give the pocket body and soft structure. I use a lightweight interfacing called S320 and it is a Vlieseline product. It is fusible and very easy to get on with.
So what do we need to make a slip pocket?
Your pattern will give you the specifics so I won’t give measurements here for obvious reasons. You will need:
- the pocket outer
- the pocket lining
- the pocket interfacing
- either a lining or an outer panel from your bag so that I can show you how to put the pocket on and divide it up. If you are a newbie, take a lining panel rather than an outer panel because your first efforts will not be on show on the bag outer.
- matching thread
- your usual sewing needs – machine, sharp scissors, that sort of thing
Now take a look at the interfacing and one of the pocket panels (the lining and the outer will be exactly the same. Lay the interfacing glue side (that is the rough side) down and centre it well on the chosen pocket panel
You see the fabric all around? That is your seam allowance plus a bit. The seam allowance is very necessary to give the stitches something to bite into. We have more than we need though because it is easier to handle.
Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the pocket, keeping it nicely centered. The interfaced piece will become the outside of the pocket.
Now take an interfaced piece and an uninterfaced piece of pocket and pin them right sides together, matching up the outer edges (everything else will fall into place then).
Beginning on one long side (this will become the bottom of the pocket) sew all around the very edge of the interfacing. This is important. Follow that edge as perfectly as you can.
Leave a gap in the bottom of the pocket to turn out. It just needs to be large enough to turn the pocket out without straining the stitches.
Now let’s deal with that extra seam allowance! Trim it back to 1/4″ all around. This is considered to be a ‘normal’ seam allowance.
One more thing – clip across the corners. This reduces a lot of bulk and means that when you turn the pocket the right way out, those corners will mitre together nicely and sit flat.
Turn the pocket the right way out and then off to the iron and press the edges of the pocket so that they are perfect. Use steam and put some time in. This is where you can fix problems and pressing will improve the overall look of your pocket.
Now you have this and it still has a gap in the base. Just ignore it. It will be taken care of when we put the pocket on. Slip pockets are traditionally topstitched on so grab your bit of lining or whatever you are using and meet me back here.
Now the pattern will tell you how far to site the pocket down from the top edge of your lining (or outer). But the most important this is to know where the vertical centre is on both your pocket and your lining or outer. ALWAYS know where the vertical centre is because it helps so much with centering things.
The simplest way is to fold the items in half and lightly press a crease on the midline.
Now simply line those two midline creases up and pin so that they cannot shift. Always back this up with a measurement check to ensure that the pocket is straight. It nearly always will be because you have your centre creases.
Now topstitch the pocket on narrowly. Keep as close to the edge as possible because it looks more professional. You can double stitch too. The choice is all yours. Oh and this is the step that makes that turning gap go away too.
Right, so we have a pocket and it is on. But these pockets, especially the longer ones, love to sag and this looks bad. That plus the fact that things will fall out of them if they are saggy. You have a couple of choices. You can add a stud but this still means that everything in them will get messy and mixed up. Or you can segment them with some vertical seams. This is the method that I use.
The first task is to decide what you will be putting into your pockets. Phone? Pen? Nail file? Whatever you decide, plan your vertical divisions accordingly. When you measure, allow a bit of ease to get things in and out of the pocket.
Now sew along the line divisions that you have made going from the bottom up (this helps to prevent puckering at the base of the pocket). Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam to help keep things nice and strong.
And that is about all there is to it! Slip pockets can have flaps too. They are still slip pockets. You find this mostly on the outsides of bags. They are a fun and quick pocket to make and are very useful.
The pattern that I have referenced for this tute is my new Florida Retro Beach Bag and you can find it in my Etsy store here. It is discounted for a short time only too!
Happy sewing!
Debbie xx