This simple drawstring backpack is a bit of a blast from the past and it comes from my old blog. But I kinda love it and I thought that it deserved an update. So time to dust off the pattern, rewrite, re-jig and re-sew! Actually, when I looked through my old blog, I was amazed at how the fashions had changed and how far I have come too. In case you want to take a peek, here is the address.

Good grief even my photography style has changed! Ahem, well, back to the business in hand! I love a simple make like this and it is so versatile. This one is a great washable gym bag for the children or just something to tote a few needs to the beach. I use mine to store tights and my friend uses hers for her little girl’s ballet things. Really the sky is the limit.

And we don’t need too much either. This one is a great half yard make but as you can see if you look at the original post, Fat Quarters will work too and then you get a different one on the front and the back for a quirky effect.

But this time, my inspiration has come from my favourite harbour – Hamburg. I adore ships and I visit this beautiful place as often as I can. This is the photo that I used for inspiration for the backpack do-over.

But to make this backpack different to my original, I am going to keep things simple and just use a main colour, a trim and some lining.

So what do we need to whip one of these up?

• 1/2 yd, main outer fabric. I am using canvas.
• 1/2 yd, lining fabric. 100% cotton every time.
• FQ trim (for the pocket, tabs and top cord casing). I have chosen a lovely heavy denim which coordinates well with my outer canvas but a solid canvas to match would look great too.
• metal snap for the front pocket
• rivets to match the front pocket stud closure
• 4 1/2″ yds. cord for the drawstrings. I am using a natural hemp rope but you can use any sort of cord at all. Try gardener’s jute twine plaited together to make it thicker if you cannot find anything else.
• your usual sewing needs – scissors, matching thread, fave tools – you know the stuff.

There is no pattern to print off for this one, it is a cut and measure project so just follow along with me.

Cutting:

From the outer fabric:

• 2 pieces 14 1/2″ wide x 16 1/2″ deep for the front and back panels

From The lining:

• 2 pieces 14 1/2″ wide x 16 1/2″ deep for the front and back panel linings
• 1 piece 7 1/2″ wide x 5 1/2″ deep for the front pocket body lining
• 1 piece 3 1/2″ wide x 7 1/2″ long for the front pocket flap lining
• 2 pieces 3 1/2″ wide x 14″ long for the cord casing lining

From the Trims:

• 2 pieces 3 1/2″ wide x 14″ long for the cord casing outers
• 1 piece 7 1/2″ wide x 5 1/2″ deep for the front pocket body
• 1 piece 3 1/2″ wide x 7 1/2″ long for the front pocket flap outer
• 1 piece 3″ wide x 12″ long for the bottom tabs

Making:

Let’s start with the tabs. Fold them in half length ways and press a central crease. Now fold the raw edges to the centre crease and fold the whole thing in half to make a tab that is 3 /4″ wide.

Topstitch along both sides to close the tab and decorate it. Cut into three equal (4″) pieces and put aside. I didn’t want to add another colour but you could use traditional yellow thread for the topstitching too.

The front pocket comes next. Now I know that I am always telling you about interfacing everything and that is absolutely right. I have chosen not to interface anything on this bag because I am using really meaty fabrics. The denim is quite thick and the canvas outer can look after itself too. If you have chosen thinner cotton fabrics though, interfacing is needed. Anyway, start with the pocket body. We are effectively making a slip pocket here. Pin the outer and the lining right sides together and sew all around the outer edge with a normal seam allowance leaving a turning gap in the base of the pocket.

Clip across the corners to reduce bulk and turn the pocket the right way out.

Press so that the seams are as perfect as possible. Use steam (or better yet a damp cloth) and take your time – a multitude of sewing sins can be eradicated with a good pressing. Find the vertical centre of both the pocket and the bag outer and mark with a crease. Folding them in half is the easiest way. My favourite tool for softly pressing the centre crease is my Roll & Press by Clover.

Measure down 8 1/4″ from the top edge of the bag and pin the pocket on. Topstitch double all around the pocket sides and base (this will also close the turning gap in the pocket base).

The flap comes next. I didn’t want a dead square flap. A curve looks nicer and you can either use a fancy-schmancy ruler for this job or just trace around something big enough that happens to have a round bit – like a dinner plate. And do the same on the lining.

Now cut along the line that you drew. Then the same as the pocket body; pin the lining to the flap outer, right sides together and sew around but this time leave the turning gap in the straight bit.

Before your turn out this time, you will need to notch the curve so that it sits nice and flat without puckering. To do this, cut little ‘Vs’ being very careful not to snick the stitches. Now when you turn the pocket the right way out, the fabric will not be too bulky and it will sit nicely.

Turn the pocket flap out and press as you did for the pocket body and then it is time to topstitch this one too. I have matched the topstitching to the pocket body (double) and it is important to sew the sides and the front curve only. Leave the straight bit. Just tuck the gap closed when you press.

Time to attach the female half of the stud! I love this bit! Find the centre with a fold and finger press and then measure up qqq and make a mark. Make a hole here and attach the stud.

You can get all sorts of fancy equipment for attaching metal hardware and down the line, I do suggest that you collect it. But for now, if you have a decent brand of hardware (I love Prym) you will find all of the tools that you need in the packet. You only need a hammer.

Measure down 6 1/2″ from the top edge of the bag and, in the dead centre, attach the flap with a double row of topstitching. Now you will only do this on the long straight bit. If we had done it already a couple of steps ago, you would be doing it twice, right over the top of the first one. This looks clunky and unprofessional.

See where the pocket flap sits naturally and then attach the male half of the stud on the pocket body. I added the rivets to the top corner too at this point.

So far so good! The front is finished. Time to add the tabs. Find the top centre, fold a tab in half and attach it to the top edge.

The other two tabs are also folded in half and they go on the bottom edge 1 1/2″ in from either side.

The top casing is next. My casing is easy to make and fully lined so you will never see ugly bits. To do this, take one outer and one lining piece and pin them right sides together. Sew the ends only.

Turn the casing the right way out and press the ends. Now fold the casing in half lengthwise with the lining in the middle. Pin or clip the casing to the top of the bag, matching the centre of the casing and the centre of the panel and sew it on. Do the same on the back.

Pin the right sides of the outers together and sew the sides and base leaving no gaps.

Do the same for the lining but this time, leave a turning gap in the base large enough to turn the bag out without straining the stitches.

With the bag outer the right way out and the lining inside out, pull the lining on over the outer. Pin the side seams together so that they stay put (a couple of pins in the front and back won’t hurt either. Sew right around the top edge.

Turn the bag out through the gap in the base of the lining and close the gap. Stuff the lining down into the bag and make sure that everything is spot on. Topstitch around the top edge. This is an amazing thing to keep the lining down in the bag.

Time to put the drawstring in! Cut the cord in half and thread one piece through the casing one way and the other piece the other way. You have enough length to allow for trimming (and fraying!).

There are lots of ways you can finish the ends. In my old blog post, I knotted the ends and tried to keep them in the casing but this didn’t work very well. This time I have knotted them in a chunky knot and allowed the knot to become part of the design. This makes a nice nautical touch too. The difference is that now I have used a gorgeous, organic hemp rope and it is beautiful enough to be on display.

And that’s it! This is a quick make and it makes a welcome gift for a new mother or a fur baby mom. It is nice to have a quick idea in mind for a last minute present to anyone actually.

Just before I go though, as I mentioned earlier, I am lucky enough to live a short trip from my favourite harbour in the world, Hamburg. I can see myself visiting with this bag and eating an ice cream while I watch the ships. I will leave you with a couple of more pictures for inspiration.

These pics were taken last year at the harbour birthday.

Happy sewing and see you next time!

Debbie xx

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