Everyone needs a simple tote bag in their repertoire. And you do not need me to tell you that it is coming up to gift giving time….

I love a simple make like this because it is quick. So if you want to get into bag making, this is the bag to start with and if you have been at it for ages but need some pretty quick gifts for Christmas, again you have come to the right place.

One thing that I love doing is to design something for a raw beginner that looks much more difficult than it is. This tote is that sort of thing. With a few simple additions, it looks like something that took ages and plenty of skill.

This is a nice deep tote and it is designed to be worn over the arm but with a bit more length, the straps could fit as a shoulder bag option.

We are going to add simple pockets to the lining and at the end of this post, I have a suggestion as to where you can progress from here if you have enjoyed the make and would like to build your bag making skills further.

Actually, the beauty of a bag pattern like this is the vast amount of choice that it gives you. For example, if you do not feel quite ready to add pockets, don’t. It will mean that your storage options are slightly different but you will still have a perfectly functioning tote bag. You can add two pockets or only one and you can leave off the handle trim. You will still have a bag.

Promise me one thing though, at least read the bits where you are a bit scared. That way, you can see that they are not all that bad and if you take them step by step, they are actually pretty easy.

So what do we need to make this little sweetie?

• 1/2 yd canvas or similar weight fabric
• 1/2 yd pure cotton for the lining (this is enough if you decide to put the pockets in too)

TIP: I actually decided to make the pockets in a contrast fabric so that you could better see what was going on. If you decide to do this, you will need about a Fat Quarter of contrast fabric and you will save a bit of your main lining fabric.

• 3/4 yd Style-vil foam interfacing (Vlieseline)
• Fat Quarter G740 fusible interfacing (Vlieseline)

TIP: G740 is a whisper thin interfacing with a fabric weight much the same as cheesecloth.

• 40″ of 1 1/2″ wide cotton webbing for the handles
• 6″ wide x 12″ long thin leather or vegan leather for the trims and the front closure.

You also need all of your usual sewing needs including tools for making holes, glue suitable for fabric and matching threads for all of your fabrics. The seam allowances are all 1/4″ unless stated otherwise.

Cutting:

From the canvas outer fabric:

• 2 pieces 15 1/2″” wide x 13 1/2″ tall for the front and back outer panels

From the lining Fabric:

• 2 pieces 15″ wide x 13″ tall for the front and back lining panels
• 2 pieces 15″ wide x 5 1/2″ tall for the slip pockets

From the leather/ vegan leather:

• 2 pieces 1 1/4″ wide x 11″ long for the handle trims
• 2 pieces 1 1/2″ wide x 5 1/2″ long for the closure strap

From the handle webbing:

• cut the piece of webbing in half to make two pieces 18″ long

TIP: you have a bit extra webbing to allow for trimming

From the G740 interfacing:

• 1 piece 13 1/2″ wide x 5 1/2″ tall for the slip pocket interfacing

TIP: there are no cutting notes for the Style-Vil foam interfacing. The idea is to press the panel to be interfaced and then baste it to a slightly larger piece of foam interfacing, keeping the panel gently stretched evenly in all directions. Then trim the foam back to the seam allowance.

Preparation:

Let’s start with the handles. Take the leather trims and round the ends with something roughly 1″- 1 1/2″ wide. I used a roll of tape to draw around. I actually found that my air erasable marker was dark enough to see even on the black leather that I chose. Cut the ends round

Now lay the trims onto the webbing in the dead centre and lightly glue (double sided tape works well too) them into place. When they are dry, topstitch on with your chosen thread. I chose my thread from one of the leaf colours in the main fabric

The closure strap is next. Round one end only of both pieces and then with the suede sides facing (if using leather), glue them together and allow them to dry. Putting something heavy on them while they are drying will keep them nice and flat.

Topstitch around the edge all the way around and then measure in 1″ from the rounded end and make a hole right in the centre of the strap.

Attach the female half of your snap set onto the leather closure strap. This is ready when we need it later on.

You can put the handle and strap aside for the time being and prepare the bag outer. Attach the front and back outer panels to a piece of Style-Vil foam interfacing. Lay them onto a slightly larger piece of the interfacing and pin if you need to. The interfacing is slightly larger than needed because if the panel stretches, you don’t want it to run off. It is easier to trim the foam back. Machine baste

And then trim the foam back to the seam allowance. Repeat for the other outer panel

The handles go on next. Measure in 4″ from each outer edge and attach a handle with about 1/2″ overhang like this

That overhang means that the handle is really strongly attached and the stitches have plenty to hold onto. When the outer is put together and the lining is in, these handle overhangs will be topstitched twice meaning that they have been stitched in about four times from beginning to end. Repeat this on the other outer panel.

On to the lining and let’s make the pocket next. You have two pocket panels. Fuse the G740 interfacing to the wrong side of one of the pocket panels. This interfaced panel will now be the pocket outer.

Place the interfaced pocket panel and the un-interfaced one right sides together and sew the long top and bottom seams only

Turn the pocket the right way out through one of the end openings and press so that the bottom and top seams are perfect. Don’t worry about the open ends; they will be taken care of in the side seams. Topstitch the top edge only 1/8″ along. Come back in with a second row of topstitching 1/4″ under that.

Lay the pocket onto one of the lining panels 3 1/2″ down from the top edge of the lining panel and pin it so that it cannot move at all. Topstitch narrowly along the bottom long edge

Baste the sides so that they stay put too

These pockets (especially one as big as this) will sag so the best way to combat this is to add a vertical seam or two. Decide what you want to put into the pockets and divide up accordingly. I made a mark 5″ along and then 10″ to divide the pocket neatly into three

When you have decided, sew from the bottom of the pocket to the top to divide it, backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam. As you can (just about) see, it gives three really nice sections (and you can see a sneak peak of the little extra that I made to go with the bag. Details at the end of the post)

Matching up the side seams perfectly, pin or clip the lining panels together, right sides facing. Sew the side and base seams leaving about a 6″ gap in the base seam for turning out later.

You will need to box the corners of the lining to match the outer (coming up in the next step) but it was almost impossible to photograph so that you could see what was going on so I shot the outer instead. The lining is exactly the same though.

TIP: it is actually easier to box the lining than the outer because the lining is thinner. So read ahead and see what to do if you are new but then box the lining first (great to practice on if you are nervous too).

Pin or clip the outer panels right sides together and sew the sides and base but this time, you don’t need to leave the turning gap.

The base this bag is boxed and that is done by cutting a 2″ square from each lower corner. If you need a bit more help with this, I have a detailed tutorial here. Basically, to begin with, cut the square from the two lower corners

Here is a slightly more close-up view

Now pinch the lower and the side seams together on each corner, pin or clip and sew across. Make sure that your side and base seams are as perfectly matched as possible because that will look better from the outside. I prefer to open the seams to help with this. You might have to fight with the interfacing a bit but hang in there!

Repeat on the other corner. Box the corners of the lining too if you haven’t already done it. Exactly the same measurements and procedure.

Turn the bag outer the right way out and gently poke the corners out so that they are lovely and sharp. You can see now why fussing about matching the seams was a good idea!

Before we put everything together, there is one more preparation task to do. We need to put the stud closure in and attach the closure strap. These go through all layers (interfacing and outer) and because they are all very different, I will not go into details here. If you have a pretty good brand of stud (I am using Threaders brand), the basic hardware will come with it and all you need is a hammer. Let’s start with the closure strap because once that is in, we can use it to position the front stud just right.

Find the centre of the bag back and mark it and then measure 2 1/2″ down from the centre mark. You may not be able to pin (if using leather) and your clips may not reach so mark well and then you can simply hold the strap in place

I have made things particularly difficult for myself by choosing black fabric but a white pencil works.

Pin, clip or hold (you could tape it with double sided tape too if you need an extra bit of help) the strap onto your marks and topstitch it on. I have opted for a 3/4″ high box. By the way, if you are nervous about sewing this on or if your sewing machine just won’t play nicely, you can also rivet the closure on or even sew it by hand. There are alternatives!

On the front of the bag, measure down 1 3/4″ and make a hole. Install the male half of the stud going through all layers. Before you commit to the hole, see where the female half of the stud on the closure strap fits naturally and if it is a little different to mine, that doesn’t matter. The main thing is that the strap sits nicely. It should be a snug fit at this point

Putting it all Together

With the bag outer the right way out and the lining inside out, pull the lining on over the outer so that the right sides are together and match the side seams. Sew right around the top edge leaving no gaps (tuck the handles and the closure strap down in between the layers).

Turn the bag out through the gap in the lining and close that gap (either by hand or machine).

Stuff the lining down into the bag and then topstitch narrowly (1/8″) around the top edge. I like to come back in 1/4″ under that and topstitch again. This strengthens the handles too because they are caught several times.

And that is it! Your bag is finished! As I said, if you are new, it is a great feeling to make something which actually looks more advanced than it is and if you are a bit of an expert, it never hurts to have a quick make up your sleeve for last minute presents.

I decided to make a little matching purse too using my offcuts. I have a free pattern for that one here if you want to do the same.

Because my outer canvas was a bit thicker than usual, I left off the front slip pocket and put the stud into the zipper pocket (in the same place) before putting it all together. You will see what I mean when you check the pattern out.

So if you enjoyed making this bag, where to from here? The world is full of bag patterns and choosing the wrong one can be expensive and frustrating. My next recommendation as a skill builder is my Step-By-Step bag which you can find in my shop.

Best thing is that the pattern is on sale until Sunday December 4th 2022. This is a special price only available to readers of my blog.

It is a 3 in 1 pattern (so great value) and it leads you from the tote that we have made here today to the next level where we put this lovely top panel in and slightly vary the handle trim (the handles are a bit longer too)

The next model shows you all of that plus a different sort of slip pocket

And the final option shows how to put a zipper box pocket in too! There are links back to this blog in the pattern too if you need a really deep dive into the techniques.

What I love about a pattern like this, is that you gather a lot of the basic bag making skills in one go which is pretty handy. By the time you have made all three bags, you will know about interfacing, two sorts of slip pockets, boxing the base, decorating and adding handles, zipper box pockets, adding simple hardware and topstitching.

And don’t forget to show me what you make! I love to see your work and if you are on Instagram, you can use the hashtag #thefolkartfactory. You can follow me too @craftyvamp.

Well all that remains now is for me to wish you a very Merry Christmas and a safe, healthy and prosperous 2023! See you all next year!

Debbie xx