I was having a look through my patterns the other day to see what we could possibly add to the list of ‘needed’ things. Then it came to me. A wallet. We don’t have a wallet pattern!

I decided that it has to be easy to make and use very little fabric so that we could use leftover pieces. You could match a bag by using the offcuts or you could just have a rummage through the scrap bin and see what comes out. Actually experimentation is the whole point of this little sweetie- have a play and see what works.

These would make great gifts (it is coming up to that time…) and most sewists would either have something that they could use or buy the small amounts of fabric needed quite cheaply. In fact, you could make one of these wallets with a couple of Fat Eighths of fabric.

THE Wallet seems to work best with thin canvas, Essex Linen and that sort of thing. I have used my beloved Art Gallery Fabrics for the pockets and some lining because it is thinner than most quilting cottons so it doesn’t add to the bulk.

If you did not have any Essex Linen or thin canvas, you could ‘make’ a fabric of the right weight by interfacing some quilting cotton with something whisper thin like G740 by Vlieseline. G740 is a cheesecloth type weight with glue on one side.

I did have another brainwave to cut down on bulk too and that was to use Bondaweb (Vlieseline) to laminate the outer and lining of the flap together. More about that further down but just to say that it was a real moment where I wasn’t sure if it was going to work the way I wanted it to. But you know what! It worked! The flap outer and lining now has a leather type weight and feel just stiff enough to do its job.

Other than that, this is pretty much an interfacing free zone which was incredibly unsettling – I am a huge fan of interfacing and am mostly of the opinion that it should be used pretty much everywhere for a professional result. I expect that I shall get over it.

And topstitching! I topstitch everything! This project didn’t need it that much. I got to do a bit on the pockets but that’s it! I cannot even SEE my comfort zone! Well it just goes to show that sometimes it is okay to do things a little differently. Apparently.

So what do we need to make this little paragon?

• Fat Eighth pretty fabric for the outside and some inner details. Good choices are Essex Linen, needle cord, linen, quilting cotton (with suitable interfacing) and light canvas. You can swap things around too. Make everything match or make nothing match. it is up to you.
• A second piece of exterior fabric. You only need a small amount of this (a 10″ square is plenty) for the zipper pocket outer
• Fat Eighth lightweight quilting cotton for the lining. I have chosen some Art Gallery Fabrics for this both because I love them and they are the perfect weight. You do not need too much bulk.
• Fat Eighth Bondaweb (Vlieseline)
• Fat Eighth G740 (Vlieseline)- you only need this if you are using quilting cotton for the exterior.
• 4 1/2″ zipper. I prefer a metal zipper for this one and it is about a size 5.
• metal stud for the closure
• scrap of leather or vegan leather about 3″ sq. for the tab
• extra scrap of leather or similar to decorate the zipper pull. I have a piece of leather 1/4″ wide x 5″ long but you could use vegan leather, ribbon or even a small charm.

NB: all seam allowances are 1/4″ and have been added already.

Cutting:

From the main exterior fabric:

• 1 piece 6″ wide x 3″ tall for the front slip pocket outer
• 1 piece 6″ wide x 6 3/4″ tall for the main flap outer
• 1 piece 6″ wide x 6 3/4″ tall for the main flap lining

TIP: This is not a misprint! Even though this is a lining panel, I wanted more of the lovely printed Essex Linen (not to mention the canvas) to be included so I used it for the lining too. You could choose a different option if you prefer.

From the contrast exterior fabric:

• 2 pieces 6″ wide x 4″ tall for the zipper pocket outer panels

From the lining fabric:

• 2 pieces 6″ wide x 4″ tall for the zipper pocket lining
• 1 piece 6″ wide x 3″ tall for the front slip pocket lining

From the leather or vegan leather:

• 1 piece 1 1/2″ wide x 1 3/4″ long for the front tab
• 1 piece 1/4″ wide x 5″ long for the zipper pull decoration

From the Bondaweb:

• 1 piece 6″ wide x 6 3/4″ tall for the main flap cover interfacing

From the G740 (if using):

• 1 piece 6″ wide x 6 3/4″ tall for the main flap outer interfacing if using quilting cotton

TIP: you would want to interface any fabric that is used for an exterior piece if using quilting cotton. So that means the zipper pocket outers too. The interfacing is all the same as the panel pieces.

The first step is to prepare your zipper. Fold the end tapes under and to the side and use a couple of stitches to hold them there

Mark the centre of the zipper and the centre of the outer panels. This is important as in the next step, you can centre the zipper onto the panel before basting and ensure an even 3/4″ each end

Now we need the prepared zipper, the zipper pocket outer panels and the zipper pocket lining. Take an outer panel and with the right sides together, baste the zipper centrally to the outer panel

Now lay a piece of lining over the top , pin or clip and sew along the length of the zip. The basting step means that although you can no longer see the zipper or the outer panel, you know that they cannot move

Flip the layers the right way out and press. Topstitch narrowly along the length of the zip. Narrowly in this case means about 1/8″ and then come back in and baste a second line 1/4″ under that. You can use a twin needle if you prefer

Repeat all of this on the other side of the zipper pocket

Bring the two halves of the zipper pocket together with the lining facing and baste the sides and base. The zip will be at the top at this point

On to the front slip pocket! You need the outer panel and the lining. Pin them right sides together and sew the top edge seam only. Flip them the right way out and press so that the edge is perfect. Topstitch narrowly (1/8″) along

Find the vertical centre of your slip pocket and measure up 1 1/4″ from the bottom edge. Mark clearly, make a hole and attach the male half of the stud set

We now have two components done. Lay the zipper pocket down so that the sides and base align with the sides and base of the flap lining (remember that my flap lining and outer are the same fabric so do not be confused)

Lay the slip pocket over the top and align the sides and base of that too. Pin and baste.

Put that aside for a moment (honestly, we are almost finished!) and fuse the Bondaweb to the wrong side of the flap exterior panel. Remove the paper

TIP: Bondaweb (or Vliesofix) is usually used for appliqué. I am using it here to fuse the outer flap to the lining and make the flap feel a little more substantial without adding the extra weight of interfacing layers. This is important to note because once it is on and the paper is removed, DO NOT iron anything until we have finished. Finger pressing only for the time being.

Round two top corners of both the outer flap panel and the lining (just ignore the pockets). To round them, simply draw around something round and cut out

With the flap outer and the lining right sides together, pin or clip and then sew right around the outer edge, leaving a gap somewhere for turning out.

Clip across the pointy corners

Notch the curves

Turn out through the gap and roll the edges between your fingers to make them perfect (no iron yet remember). When you are happy with the seams, press the outer panel so that it adheres to the lining. You may have to negotiate around the bumpy bits like the zip and stud

Take the piece of leather for the front closure and round the top edge. To do this, simply trace around something round (I used a roll of washi tape because it was about the right size) and then cut it out.

Attach it to the front centre of the flap

Check that it is sitting in the right place and attach the other half of the stud set

Finally decorate the zipper pull with your leather or ribbon.

And that’s it! Not too difficult once you know what to expect. These make great gifts and also great sellers at markets. You are more than welcome to make them in handmade quantities to sell if you like and I wish you all the luck in the world with sales. Simply credit me as the designer and the universe will be happy!

And before you go, if you have enjoyed this project, do check out my other bag patterns which you can find in my shop. Here is just a taster – there are many more designs on offer!

I love to see your makes too and you can use the hashtag #thefolkartfactory and tag me too @craftyvamp if you like.

See you again very soon!

Debbie xx