How to make a Mask Protector.

We are all pretty much aware by now that we don’t want our masks to become contaminated when we are out and about. No-one but us gets to touch them and we should wash them often if they are fabric masks or dispose of them completely and responsibly if they are not. We all know the drill by now.

But what about when our mask is not in use? What about when you are in between places and it is sitting in the bottom of your bag. Nestled against your purse which you may or may not have put on a counter in the last shop – really cannot remember and so it may or may not have greeblies too.

Okay so I don’t want to make you too paranoid to go out of the house. I am just going to pop my medical science hat on for a sec (past lifetime) and remind you that one of the easiest ways to transmit a virus is by touching your face. Now that may be with your hands or with something else that has been in contact with contamination. Your mask for example.

The answer could be pretty simple actually – a mask protector. This is a simple little case which folds over a pocket and closes with a snap. This would actually be an awesome project for the QAYG (quilt-as-you-go) technique because it is an EXCELLENT use for orphan scraps! If you have never done QAYG before but have heaps of gorgeous scraps, I have a deep-dive tute for you and you can see it here.

And if you need a great free 3D mask pattern which fits nicely and can even be worn with glasses, you can find that one here. These masks fold down to a tiny 2 3/4″ wide x 4 1/4″ long so that means that our mask protector doesn’t need to be huge. This is great because it fits a bag better and it uses next to no fabric. This mask protector is actually designed to fit that particular mask.

Right so what do we need to make this project…

  • your outer panel measuring 5 3/4″ wide x 7 3/4″ long
  • a piece of lining fabric to coordinate with your outer measuring 5 3/4″ wide x 7 3/4″ long
  • 2 extra pieces of lining 5 3/4″ wide x 3 1/2″ tall for the internal pocket
  • 1 piece of H630 (Vlieseline) fusible interfacing 5 3/4″ wide x 7 3/4″ long for the outer interfacing
  • 1 piece of G740 (Vlieseline) fusible interfacing 5 3/4″ wide x 3 3/4″ tall for the pocket interfacing
  • 26″ bias binding
  • a snap closure and the hardware to attach it. Mostly the hardware comes with the snaps (especially if you buy a better brand) and all you need is a hammer.

Begin by trimming your outer fabric, fusing the G740 interfacing to the wrong side and rounding the four corners.

TIP: I like to use pretty much anything round for this job. By all means, if you have a ‘proper’ round ruler or template shape, use that. If not, have a look around your house and see what will work – an upside down cup or glass usually does the trick. Simply draw around it and cut out.

Next, with the wrong sides together, baste the outer to the untrimmed lining

Trim the lining to match the outer. Find the centre, mark it across and sew along this line.

This sewn line shows you where the centre of the mask keeper is and also gives it a nice handy line to fold on when you close the case.

Make the inner pocket next. You will need the two pocket panels. Interface one with G740 interfacing on the wrong side. This will become the pocket outer. Place these two pieces right sides together and sew the top edge only.

Flip the pieces the right way out and press so that the top edge of the pocket is perfect and then topstitch narrowly (about 1/8″) along. Round the two bottom corners and place it onto the lined outer. Line up the base and sides and attach the base and sides. You will have raw edges all around but they will be gone in the next step

As you can see, the pocket is not right on that centre row of topstitching. It is about 1/4″ under it. This means that the case will close more neatly.

Trim the outer edge if needed and then bind with your bias binding. I used some of my outer fabric to make the binding so that I did not introduce any more colours or textures but you could use shop bought too.

I always attach the binding on one side by machine and then fold it over and attach the other side by hand. I find this easy, relaxing and much neater. But do feel free to do what you normally like.

Finally, the case needs a stud to keep it closed. These vary widely and I cannot tell which one you have so I will just say to follow the manufacturer’s instructions when attaching yours. But very generally, make a mark on the front of your keeper 1″ in from the edge and right in the centre.

Make an appropriate hole and attach the female half of the stud going through all layers

Now see where that sits naturally when you close the case (it will be in the centre and about the same measurement in), mark the position there and make a hole and attach the other half of the stud.

TIP: be aware that with the male half of the stud, it goes inside the pocket and NOT through all layers. If you put it through all of the layers, it will get in the way of the mask when you put it in. Besides which, the back of the stud is not crying out to be on show.

And that is it! These make great presents and wonderful craft stall sellers. As per usual, you have my permission to make these in handmade quantities and sell. Just let people know where you got the pattern and we’re all good!

Happy sewing and stay safe!

Oh and by the way….before you go, there has been a little change on the blog. I have added a shop of all of my bag patterns so you can now buy directly from here. Do have a browse and let me know what you think. The link is on the top menu under the title or you can just click here.

Hugs

Debbie xx

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